The Many Avatars of Idli

When fluffy white idlis arrive steaming on a steel plate at my local Darshini (all-day breakfast joint in Karnataka), the urge to immediately devour them kicks in. Over the years, I have learned my lessons of patience and now have gathered enough self-control to spare my tongue from lashes of heat.

Made from fermented rice and lentil batter, idli has long been part of breakfasts in South India.

A comforting dish of idli, the South Indian breakfast staple. Image: Anusha Kulal

There has been much debate about the history of idli in India. While there have been mentions of this dish in ancient scriptures, it did not match the current variation of idli as the usage of rice and lentils, the fermentation and steaming process was missing. According to food historian KT Achaya, the origin of this dish can be traced back to Indonesia, where Kedli was a similar dish that was commonly consumed and is likely the predecessor of the infamous idli. While the history might be unclear, idli has become a quintessential dish in the culinary landscape of India. Shaped like a flying saucer, the spongy disc has taken many forms over the years across regions.

Thatte idli

Bidadi, a small rural town between the Bengaluru and Mysore highway, was a silent industrial town a few decades ago. A handful of eateries started serving Thatte (plate in Kannada) idli to many workers in the area. They eventually attracted bikers and cyclists from different parts of Karnataka who would frequent the trails around Bidadi. The plate-shaped idli, made with a fermented batter of Urad dal (black lentil) and rice, was served with chutney. Today, the humble idli has made its way into many eateries and is a sought-after dish served with podi (spicy powder) and ghee.

Sanna

Along the coasts of Mangalore and Goa, locals favour Sannas, idlis made with rice, coconut and toddy liquor. Toddy is a popular tipple made from the fermented sap of palm or coconut trees, with a short life of a day. The fresh toddy harvested in the morning has a subtly sweet flavour profile making it an ideal addition to the idli batter. When served with a spicy chicken curry or pork sorpotel, the combination of the slightly sweet and soft idli complements the heat of the curries.

The Sanna version of idli uses rice, coconut and toddy liquor. Image: Suchitra Kudva

Ramassery idli

Around 200 years ago, members of the Mudaliar community migrated from Tamil Nadu to Ramassery village in Kerala. Along with their highly honed weaving skills, they also brought a unique way of preparing idli that has a long shelf life compared to its counterparts. Instead of the usual steel ramekins, the idli batter is cooked over an earthen pot, sandwiched between a piece of muslin cloth and the native plachi leaf. The result is a velvety and soft flattened idli that is akin to the shape of a dosa. As the demand for weaving jobs dwindled, members of the community started selling the Ramassery idli which is today survived by four families in Kerala and a handful of restaurants passionate about keeping the art of making Ramassery idli alive.

Kovil idli

For many, a trip to Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu is incomplete without a visit to the infamous Varadharaj Perumal temple. Once the visitors have sought their blessings, they head to the Prasadam (Offering) counter to secure the foot-long idli. Legend has it that, centuries ago, the temple cooks prepared this unique dish as a special offering to God. What sets this idli apart is not just its size but also the ingredients. In addition to the usual rice and lentils, the batter folds in cumin seeds, black pepper, fenugreek seeds, curry leaves and ginger, giving them a unique flavour. The recipe has stayed its course for more than 600 years and has won the hearts of many patrons across Tamil Nadu.

Kovil Idli has a holy history - even if it's just legend. Image: Anuradha Varma

Moode

With the onset of the Krishna Janmashtami festival, the streets of Udupi and Mangalore witness a new line of sellers shelling out the most sought-after ingredient of the day: screw pine leaf moulds. The origin of this leaf mould is not quite clear, however, the tradition of making them has long survived the test of time. Like most idli batter, a mixture of ground rice and lentils is poured into the cylindrical moulds and steamed in a Tondorr (brass vessel). A few years ago, moode was made in huge portions. The quantity was so immense that these idlis lasted until the beginning of Ganesh Chaturthi, which is a week later. During these days, the question of ‘What’s for breakfast?’ would be met with a sheepish smile and an obvious response: moode. This idli is commonly served with either chutney or chicken curry.

Moode, characterised by its distinctive screw pine leaf cover. Image: Priyanka Acharya

Pottikalu idli/Khottige

Pottikalu idli is a popular dish in Andhra Pradesh during Ganesh Chaturthi. In Mangalore, the same dish goes by the name Khottige. Simply put, this variation is similar to Moode. However, instead of the screw pine leaves, jackfruit leaves are used for the mould. Once the batter is poured into the mould, they are placed in the steamer. The nutrients from the jackfruit leaves are believed to seep into the idli batter, making it a nutritious choice for breakfast.

Saandan

The Konkani Muslim community in Maharashtra holds a coveted recipe for a unique variety of idli. Saandan has two variations, one is made using ground rice and coconut milk and the second is a sweeter version with jackfruit. The former is a beloved dish during Eid and is commonly served with celebratory mutton curry. Similar to the sanna, the sweetness of the idli beautifully complements the flavour of the curry. The latter makes a frequent appearance as a tea-time snack.

Rava Idli

The variations also occur owing to its ingredients. Taking a more health-focused approach, idlis made with rava (semolina), oats and millets are on the rise. However, the rava idli has a fascinating history attached to it. In 1924, three brothers, Parameshwara Maiya, Ganappayya Maiya and Yagnanarayana Maiya, decided to put their culinary skills to use and opened the iconic Mavalli Tiffin Room (MTR) in Bangalore. MTR is widely popular for their crispy dosas, fluffy idli, filter coffee and deliciously viscous khara bath (a spicy dish made of semolina) and kesari bath (sweet variation), amongst other dishes. However, during World War II, the country faced an acute shortage of rice, a common denominator in many of the dishes offered at MTR. The eatery tackled this issue by experimenting with an idli recipe made of semolina, curd, curry leaves and mustard. Once it hit the menu, rava idli became an instant hit and is a cult favourite even to this day.

- Asia Media Centre