The wild and wonderful fermented foods of India

Back in those days, a lot of cooking practices were not penned down. Recipes were put on trial based on knowledge about the ingredients at hand. If it sat well with you, or even better, it boosted your health – these dishes were rostered into our diets full-time. While a handful of dishes in India are famous for their probiotic properties, India holds a vast repertoire of fermented foods where the local ingredients are the protagonists. Here are the most popular ones:

A gooseberry pickle in a ceramic jar. Pickling has been a long tradition in India. Image: Supplied/Sanirimpan

Achaar – Indian pickles

If you've dined in Indian restaurants, you might have noticed a small serving of red chutney-like condiment that is served alongside parathas or as part of a thali. Pickling has been a long tradition in India where family members get together and prepare huge batches of pickles using mango, bamboo shoots and other seasonal produce. You will also find prawn, chicken, pork, mutton and beef pickles in certain parts of the country. Unlike their Western counterparts, the Indian pickles use various regional spices along with salt and do not use the brining method. For the meaty variations, vinegar is usually added to ensure longevity. The salt breaks down the sugar and turns it into lactic acid which preserves the fresh ingredients. Enter any Indian kitchen and tucked away in a corner, away from the sunlight are the quintessential barnis, brown and white ceramic jars, preserving this flavour bomb relish.

Idli and dosa

The two cult favourite dishes – Idli and dosa – are a breakfast staple in South India. Enter any (perhaps most) kitchen in the morning and you will find a big-bottomed container holding a batter made of rice and urad dal (black gram lentil) bubbling away. These two ingredients work for both idli and dosa batter but they vary in ratio and consistency. Idli calls for more of the urad dal and the consistency is thicker. However, if you are looking for a shortcut, you can water down the idli batter to make dosa. The fermentation process is a natural one that happens overnight, with the naturally present microorganisms from grains and lentils multiplying and producing lactic acid. This allows the batter to be airy and light which ultimately results in fluffy steamed idlis and crispy dosas. With small modifications, you can use the batter to make iconic appams (hoppers made with fermented rice batter and coconut milk or toddy) of Kerala and paniyarams (crispy bite-sized dumplings made with rice and urad batter).

Dosa (pictured) and idli both rely on fermentation for a light texture. Image: Supplied/Zoshua Colah

Kaanji

In North India, where the winters are colder, kaanji is a popular probiotic drink that boosts immunity during the last months of winter. It is also often associated with Holi, the festival of colour in March. There have been mentions of this drink in ancient Ayurvedic texts indicating that this healthy drink has been part of the Indian diet for centuries. Made with black carrots that lend a purple tinge, mustard for its pungency that cuts through the earthy flavour of the carrots, black salt and other spices, this drink is not loved at first sip. While it is an acquired taste, people swear by the tangy taste that grows on you. Akin to the probiotic Kvass of Eastern Europe and Shalgam of Turkey, this beverage is high in anthocyanins and has various health benefits. The process is simple: ingredients are placed in a jar filled with water and left out in the sun. The gentle winter sun is perfect for brewing this concoction, which usually takes a week to ferment.

Dhokla

Gujarat is famously known for its steamed foods and farsans (snacks), and Dhokla is a dish that tops both categories. This savoury yellow sponge dish commonly appears during breakfast, evening snacks and sometimes as a main course. In his books, KT Acharya, a renowned food historian, has found mentions of this dish in Gujarati texts of Varanaka Samuchaya in 1520 AD. The recipe calls for rice and chana dal (split Bengal gram) which is sun-dried and ground into a coarse powder. Water is added and the batter is left to ferment overnight. Dhokla has many variations which call for a different set of spices and other ingredients. Traditionally, churned buttermilk was mixed with the fermented batter which gave it a unique taste and spongy texture. Today, eno or baking powder is used to get the sponge-like dish. Once all the ingredients are in, the batter is steamed in a Dhokaliyu (a special utensil to make dhoklas) and the final dish is garnished with tempered mustard seeds and coriander and served with chutney.

Gujarat is famous for its steamed foods - particularly dhokla. Image: Supplied/IndiaPix

Axone

Since we are talking about fermented foods, East India is home to the highest number of gut-friendly dishes. These foods emerged as not just a way of preserving food for the harsh winters but also to provide a good source of protein all year round. Axone (or akhuni), a fermented soybean delicacy from Nagaland, shares its core ingredient with other Asian fermented foods like natto and tempeh. Its name derives from the Sumi word 'axo,' meaning 'smell,' reflecting its distinctively pungent aroma. According to Naga folklore, axone was discovered by Kujunakali, an orphaned girl who lived with her cruel aunt and uncle. One day, her aunt packed her a meagre lunch of half-cooked soybeans with vegetables, which Kujunakali couldn't eat and buried in hay. Upon retrieving it days later, she found the fermented beans had developed a strong smell but surprisingly appealing taste. She shared her discovery with friends, and soon the uniquely flavoured condiment gained popularity throughout the region. Today, axone remains a cornerstone of Naga cuisine, used as a flavour catalyst in numerous traditional dishes. Nagaland is home to more than 100 fermented foods and the umami-packed axone alone has different variations within the state. According to Chef Joel Basumatari, while he has cooked many dishes in his 20 years in the hospitality industry, axone is the one dish that he can eat for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Axone shares its core ingredient with other Asian fermented foods like natto from Japan. Image: Supplied/Chef Joel Basumatari.

Fermented rice

Historically, Indians have majorly been in joint families, with nuclear families being more of a recent development. Rice was a staple food and portioning it for every meal was not simple mathematics. Across India, people found a resourceful way to take leftover rice – they submerged it in water overnight which resulted in starches breaking down, releasing a gentle tang that speaks of preservation and resilience. Farmers and labourers have long understood its silent magic—typically had as a light morning meal that hydrates, aids digestion and carries within it the microbes of survival. Each region has its name: Panta bhat, pazhayadu, tangalanna, pazhamkanji—but the story remains the same. They are typically consumed with accompaniments like green chillies, onions or curd.

While these are celebrated, countless other fermented foods dot India's culinary landscape. Here are a few more you can explore:

• Kachampuli in Coorg (vinegar made from Garcinia fruit)

• Anishi in Nagaland (fermented and smoked taro leaf patties)

• Ambali in Karnataka (drink made of rice and ragi millet)

• Ngari in Manipur (fermented dry fish)

• Ekung in Arunachal Pradesh (fermented bamboo shoot)

• Bhatura dough (fermented wheat flour dough)

Science now tells us these foods are probiotic powerhouses. But that feels like retrofitting wisdom onto what our ancestors have always known: sometimes, the best things in life need time to sour.

Banner image: Idli Vada by Saveurs Secretes

A selection of images in this article were provided by Chef Joel Basumatari

Asia Media Centre